Jayne Nakata is a long term resident of Iwaki City, Fukushima.
When the earthquake and tsunami hit Fukushima in 2011, setting off a nuclear meltdown, Jayne was 7 months pregnant with her first child, living less than 50 km from the power station.
8 years on, she’s on a mission to help her town recover from the disaster.
Her popular podcast “Transformations with Jayne”, helps women living in Japan to find support and inspiration to live their best lives.
Jayne is sharing all of her favourite “Off the Beaten Path” places and tips for travelling around this beautiful part of ” Real Japan. “
OFF THE BEATEN PATH: FUKUSHIMA TRAVEL
Fukushima.It’s a place that has created a lot of fear since the massive earthquake in 2011 set off a tsunami that damaged the Dai Ichi power station, causing a nuclear meltdown.
That was 8 years ago. A lot of people are now wondering: What’s happening in Fukushima today? Is it safe to travel there? How can I help? If that is you, then please read on.
IS IT SAFE TO TRAVEL IN FUKUSHIMA?
YES! Now only 3% of the whole prefecture is in the “No Go Zone”. That’s a tiny tiny part that, to be honest, you probably wouldn’t visit anyway.
WHERE IS THE 3%?
The rest of the prefecture is now experiencing radiation levels that are similar to anywhere else in Japan.
In my city of Iwaki, radiation is measured daily and you can see it measured on stationary geiger counters, usually located in schools and parks.
SHOULD YOU BE WORRIED ABOUT RADIATION?
Let’s just say you’ve exposed yourself to more radiation by flying to Japan (and home again) than you will in a year of being in Fukushima.
Also, Fukushima food and water is also tested daily to make sure it’s safe to eat, so I’d say our food is safer than anywhere.
WHAT KIND OF POSITIVE IMPACT CAN VISITORS HAVE WHEN VISITING FUKUSHIMA?
I know that many readers want their trip to make a positive impact on the local communities that they visit. It’s hard to do that when you are ticking boxes of the major attractions in Tokyo or Kyoto, but in Fukushima, this is somewhere that your visit can make a real difference to small family owned businesses that have been suffering dreadfully for 8 years since the disaster of 2011.
WHERE SHOULD YOU VISIT?
I recommend starting with the Travel Fukushima website to find all the information about the main tourist routes in Fukushima.
You can visit castles, traditional towns, beautiful mountains, go skiing, eat wonderful food and drink sake_ (rice wine)!
There is one area I’d like to introduce to you that you won’t find so much about by simply searching in English.
If you decide to visit us here, you’ll be rewarded with uncrowded places, friendly people, wonderful food and very affordable accommodation not to mention memories for a lifetime.
JAYNE’S OFF THE BEATEN TRACK ” COASTAL FUKUSHIMA”
One of the areas that has suffered the most during the disaster of 2011, was the coast of Fukushima.
Not only was it hit the worst by the earthquake, tsunami, and nuclear disaster it is the area of Fukushima still struggling to recover visitor numbers. If you visit the castles and ski areas you will see things are picking up there. Not so on the coast. So although this is very bad news for local businesses, this is great news for you, because you have a great “forgotten” place to visit.
ACCESS:
From Shinagawa, Tokyo, or Ueno station, take the “Super Hitachi” train on the Joban Line. This is a JR line so you can use your JR pass. I highly recommend taking the train to Yumoto Station which is around 2.5 hours from Tokyo in Iwaki City. Train seats are all reserved, so make sure you secure your seat by visiting a JR train ticketing office.
No JR Pass? Take a bus from Tokyo Station Yaesu South Exit to Iwaki Station and then the local Joban line train to Yumoto (2 stops). I do feel that the train is more scenic though!
WHEN TO GO?
Iwaki City is a great place to visit when Tokyo is too hot. It’s only 2 hours north but about 5 degrees cooler!
Our cherry blossom season happens a week or so later than Tokyo (Early April) so if you missed out down there, never fear! Just head north! Autumn is beautiful too, with leaves starting to turn in mid November. In winter we don’t actually have snow, even though we are near the ski areas. There is beautiful sunny weather almost every day, though things tend to look a bit, well, brown. Avoid all the national holidays as even this part of Japan gets busy then ーbut still doable.
WHAT TO DO WHILE THERE?
When the train arrives at the platform, you will notice a foot spa near the ticket gate. The free public foot baths are cleaned regularly the water is very hot, take care putting your feet in for the first time, but it makes your feet feel amazing. Like you’ve got brand new ones!
Another foot bath is located just in front of Yumoto station, another (my favourite) is located near Furutakiya Ryokan (mentioned below.)
After 3pm you can check in to your accommodation. Yumoto town is a great place to try staying in a traditional Japanese inn or “Ryokan”.
Ryokan are usually family owned, some going back up to 13 generations, so you are really contributing to the local community by staying there.
Please try to book directly. Every cent that ends up in their pockets helps, rather than a giant booking site who takes a large chunk in commission. Email is a great way to communicate with them if anything is unclear from their website.
Here are some of my favourites:
Koito Ryokan
Koito is owned by the Koito family and you will not find a more welcoming place in Japan. Their onsen water comes straight from underground and is pumped into the baths without being held or mixed with other water, to keep it’s natural healing properties. A family bath can be reserved for those who’d rather not bathe with strangers. Their lounge/bar/restaurant area is completely smoke-free (not always so in Japan) and children are also very welcome. Wonderful food. (Tattoo and LGBTQ friendly)
Furutakiya Ryokan
13 generations have run this family ryokan, bigger than Koito ryokan, it has more hot spring bath options. Their 7th floor rooms are newly renovated, some have beds, but there are some more inexpensive room options here too. The breakfast is very simple, hence the affordability of this ryokan. (Cash only, ATM at the convenience store next door. )
Iwaso Ryokan
Another family run ryokan, the owners are always thrilled to have visitors from overseas stay. Their website doesn’t do it justice at all. They no longer serve dinner as the owners are getting older, but their breakfasts are very good. Since they no longer use have a use for the hundreds of intricate dishes used in ryokan dinner service, they are now for sale in the lobby, pop in and have a look if you are nearby.
THINGS TO DO:
Yumoto town is a place to come, rest and relax, so makes a wonderful stopover after the frantic pace of being in Tokyo, running from one thing to the next. You’ll have a chance to repair your poor tired body in the hot springs. Once you’ve done that, what kind of things can you do?
1) Onsen Shrine Calligraphy and Blessing Experience
The Onsen Shrine, is located in the center of Yumoto town (2 minutes walk from any of the above ryokan) and houses the god of the hotsprings. This shrine has a 1300 year long history, making it one of the oldest in the whole of Japan! The shrine has been tended by the same family for nearly 90 generations.
You’ll be able to meet the Shinto priest and his wife who will help you to create your own work of calligraphy using a Japanese kanji character. Then you’ll be taken into the shrine where they will hold a real deal blessing ceremony. We’re talking drums, fire, chanting, being sprinkled with good luck! It takes about 2 hours from start to finish. At the time of writing, the cost is: 2,000 yen per person. Kids would really enjoy this activity, suitable for ages about 6 or 7 upwards.
To make an appointment for this,
contact them via their Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/yumotoonsenjinjya/
Please use simple English.
2) For kids who love dinosaurs?
Head to the Iwaki Fossil and Coal Mine Museum. ( Please note that this museum is temporarily closed – updated Sept 2022) It’s walkable from your accommodation in Yumoto. I’d recommend it for kids from about 5 or 6 years on, younger kids tend to find it terrifying! You can see locally found fossils and dinosaur skeletons as well as see what life was like for coal miners in Japan through history.
3) Kids who love soccer?
Iwaki Football Club is the only soccer field and shopping/restaurant precinct in Japan. You can enjoy watching the players whilst enjoying an amazing selection of craft beer (All you can drink for 90 minutes available!) at the Italian themed Craftsman Restaurant, fluffy pancakes from the Red Blue Cafe or maybe shop up a storm at the Under Armor outlet on the ground floor. Just a 10 minute drive from Yumoto town, ask your host nicely they may drop you there! Sometimes the grounds are open on weekends for anyone to use, please check the website for times.
4) Study Tour to Fukushima Power Station Area
Nuclear disaster tourism is increasing and now it’s safe to visit some of the towns that were evacuated.
Fukushima Study Tours is run by local people who can tailor your tour to what you’d like to see. Tours can be arranged from just one person and usually leave around 10:30am, returning about 3:00pm.
See the Fukushima Power Station Tours website here for more information
5) 7 Baysof Iwaki Hot Guys Animation Characters & The “Miracle Shrine”
Another fun thing getting underway is an attempt to bring more visitors back to the coast that was so badly damaged in the tsunami.
In Japan, what better way to do this than with animation characters! Each bay that makes up Iwaki City has its own mascot? character with a back-story and everything.
You can check out the characters here, see which one you “fancy”! https://youtu.be/ewsS7t5vu6E
You’ll need a rental car, but the driving is easy and drivers are fairly mild here! Head to Hisanohama to start at the top of the 7 bays and then head south towards Yotsukura. The final bay is Nakoso, but as far as Onahama is also great.
Hisanohama is the home of the “Miracle Shrine”. In 2011, the whole area around it was devastated by the tsunami, but the shrine stayed almost intact. To find it, head to Slow Days Cafe which has great food, themed items for the animation characters (mentioned above) and is right across the road from the shrine.The shrine is a very simple structure, but a great place to wish for luck and see the reconstruction of the coast up close.
6) Hisanohama Disaster Prevention and Exchange Center
Another place to visit, also free, is the Hisanohama Disaster Prevention & Exchange Center.
There is a small display upstairs on what happened in Hisanohama, worst hit by the tsunami in Iwaki.
This building has been purposely built as a refuge in case of tsunami.
Go and say hi to the people at reception and say you’d like to visit the display upstairs, someone will be dying to help you (and get a chance to use English too).
7) Benten Island
As you leave Hisanohama, driving along the coast, just before a tunnel you’ll see this great little spot. Benten Island（弁天島）
Parking is on the right, just before the tunnel and there is a pedestrian overbridge where you can get great views of this and then walk out onto the bridge. This bridge was also very badly damaged during the tsunami. This bridge has now been repaired as shown in this photo.
8) Try the local food & produce
In Yotsukura, head to the “Michi no Eki” which means: Road Station, a great place to enjoy local food and produce.
9) Take in the view at the Shioyazaki Lighthouse
Keep to the coast and make your way to Shioyazaki Lighthouse for views.
10) Dine out at this popular cafe
If you are lucky and there are seats available, Island Bowl-Hawaiian Cafe is hugely popular, a few minutes past Ena Town. Open 10am to 5pm, weekdays, 9am-6pm weekends, closed Mondays.
11) Head to the aquarium
Then, head on to Onahama Port where you can enjoy the educational aquarium: Aquamarine Fukushima (Weekends are extremely crowded here) which has lots of hands on activities for kids, the fish markets at La La Miu and there is a large AEON shopping mall with movie theatre, a supermarket, restaurants etc.
NOT KEEN ON DRIVING?
From Yumoto Station, take the local train, north, to Hisanohama and back again in order to make your way around the Hisanohama town area (the train takes approximately 30 minutes, 410 yen) The rest of the coast will require a rental car to access.
Alternatively, take the local train from Yumoto, south, to Izumi, then bus or taxi (10 minutes) to Onahama Port to enjoy the Aquarium and fish markets.
WHERE TO FROM HERE?
Once you’ve enjoyed the hospitality and relaxation of Yumoto Town and Iwaki City, you can use your JR pass and take the local train from Yumoto to Iwaki station, change to the Banetsu Tou Line to Koriyama City.
This is a beautiful train ride through mountains and small villages.
From there you can use the bullet train to return to Tokyo, or head further north to Sendai, Iwate, Akita or Aomori and even to Hokkaido or further explore the castles, mountains and lakes of Fukushima in the Aizu Wakamatsu area, by transferring to the Banetsu Sai line.
This trip is a great way to have a positive impact on the small towns of the Fukushima coast that are still struggling 8 years on from the disaster. If you like to travel off the beaten path, don’t mind figuring things out if things are not all in English everywhere you go and really want to meet some wonderful Japanese people, I highly recommend this trip!
Jayne Nakata is a long term resident of Iwaki City, Fukushima. When the earthquake and tsunami hit Fukushima in 2011, setting off a nuclear meltdown, Jayne was 7 months pregnant with her first child, living less than 50 km from the power station. 8 years on, she’s on a mission to help her town recover from the disaster. Her popular podcast “Transformations with Jayne”, helps women living in Japan to find support and inspiration to live their best lives. You can also follow Jayne on instagram here.
