Summer in Tokyo
Summer in Tokyo gets a bad reputation (and, I must be honest – July and August are my least favourite times to be in Japan. It’s sooo humid.)
It’s humid in that Asian summer ‘I’ve just had a shower and now I need another shower’ kind of way.
But this is also the time of year for cocktails on a rooftop, summer festivals and fireworks.
Pack accordingly
Clothing
Makes sure you wear light layers with a medium layer on top.
I always find that walking around outside to be crazily hot but then I step inside a convenience store, department store or train carriage and I’m freezing. So I always tend to wear a light short-sleeved layer and then a long sleeved shirt for over the top.
I wrote another post about how to pack for Japan. I have a month by month what to pack guide here.
Deodorant & Bug Spray
I have yet to find a really robust deodorant or mosquito repellant here. On hot Summer breezeless evenings, you’ll need both of these. Incase rainy season isn’t completely finished or makes a comeback… you’ll need a good bug spray. Heavy duty.
Japanese mosquitoes are NASTY. Don’t worry – they aren’t going to give you malaria or anything else gross. But their bites are soooo nasty. In the suitcase they need to go.
EAT ALL THE COLD, KAWAII TREATS!
Japan takes its sweets very seriously and isn’t Summer just the perfect excuse for you to take it seriously too?
Try all of the flavoured seasonal soft-serve ice-cream flavours everywhere you stop – the wackier the better!
Also, if you’re in the centre of Tokyo 2018? Word on the street is that milk & cream flavoured soft-serve is what’s in this Summer.
For a more traditional treat, I recommend really falling in love with Kakigori.
Kakigori is shaved ice …. well… it’s kind of like a slurpee.
It’s really really easy to find in the warm months. There are cheap and cheerful versions at the beach, at a market, a festival etc… and posh deluxe versions in specialty kakigori shops.
It’s a very quintessential Japanese summer treat.
MAKE THE MOST OF THE HEAT
Get out by (or on) the water!
OUTDOOR SUGGESTION 1:
SUP YOGA
How cool is it that Stand Up Paddleboarding and Yoga is an option in Tokyo?!
You can be out on the water with Mt Fuji (on a clear day) or the Rainbow Bridge in the background.
And don’t worry if you’ve never done it before ( or you’re a VERY uncoordinated person like I am!) because Kelly is the most patient and understanding instructor. I had very low expectations and was so amazed when I was able to stand and actually hold a few moves …. before falling back in again (and not like that cute kind of fall back stuff.. I mean … half falling forward … then half falling backwards. .. and then … belly flopping.)
If you are a novice, like me, the Intro to Sup class is probably best for you.
This is me!! I didn’t even expect to be able to kneel!
If you’re not a confident swimmer – don’t be too worried as there are also life vests at your disposal. It was really windy when I went and Kelly attached our boards together. It was great.
Kelly is the only foreigner teaching SUP in Japan and is also Japan’s first internationally certified SUP and SUP Yoga Instructor.
For a, weather permitting, Fuji backdrop, you’ll need to take the class in Enoshima or for something closer to the city – there is Odaiba.
See the instagram page here to see what you’ll need to bring along. Wetsuits (if it’s cold) and boards are provided.
It is worth reaching out – even if classes on the schedule don’t match what you were hoping for – they are great at popping in additional classes where possible. So accommodating.
The Company is called Shine on SUP.
OUTDOOR SUGGESTION 2:
A DAY SPA
I recently tried the day spa at The Oiso Prince Hotel – and it was better than I ever hoped it would be! ( and you wear swimsuits in the spa and pool areas – for people wondering….)
I have written MUCH more on this day spa outside of Tokyo here.
We booked the Lunch and Spa plan ( you can choose from lunch at the hotel’s Chinese restaurant or Western restaurant – we went with the latter.)
There are other plans – including if you decide to actually stay at the hotel. All of the plans are listed here (in Japanese so you may need to ask a Japanese friend for some help if you want to do something different to what we did. )
Reservations are required and must be made at least 2 days in advance. This lunch plan isn’t available on Sundays – they have a plan called the Sunday Brunch plan, if you’re interested.
When we arrived we checked in at spa reception, we paid our 6000 yen each (that price included our lunch) and we were each given a transparent beach bag with a robe, a towel and a locker key.
We then went to our female and male (segregated , of course) change rooms. Connected to the change rooms are female and male onsens. One indoors and one out. As you can imagine, the onsens are only for bathing in when naked. It is assumed that you will have an onsen at the end of your day spa experience and that is what the towel in the bag is for ( the pool has their own towels provided.)
We then were to change into our swimsuits with the robes on and we went straight for the infinity pool.
On the same floor is also a hot stone spa, a sauna, a Turkish bath room and an ice room too. There are also jacuzzis on the deck.
My most pleasant surprise was…. we were able to see Mount Fuji!!! How special is that??!!!
We were also relieved that the pool was heated so beautifully – as it was only 24 degrees outside!
We were able to get smoothies at the bar (there are alcoholic drinks too) and we paid for them on the way out – our locker key numbers worked like an ID to charge drinks to and then pay later.
The whole pool and spa floor was available to us from 6am-5pm ( longer if you’re a guest staying at the hotel). You’re not allowed to leave the premises and come back to have another spa though – once you’ve ‘ checked out’ you’re done.
It is possible to book in for additional massages and other treatments etc.
Lunch was simple but yummy – and the whole package was such good value we didn’t expect much at all! But it was very yummy ( the menu changes with the seasons.)
**Something worth noting: Unfortunately, guests with tattoos aren’t allowed to use the spa.
They are very strict about this rule. I’d hate for you to go all the way here and be turned away so wanted to tell you ahead of time****
When you make a booking, it’s possible to do it in English, but you’ll be asked a few questions about times for lunch and told about the facilities so I think its best to ask a Japanese friend or concierge to do it on your behalf – if that’s an option for you.
Don’t forget to pack : Your own swimwear, sunglasses, something to read by the pool.
NO TATTOOS ALLOWED HERE.
NO CHILDREN UNDER 16 ALLOWED HERE>
THE OISO PRINCE HOTEL
SPA RESERVATION PHONE NUMBER :0463-61-1111
Oiso is about 70 minutes drive from the centre of Tokyo. Traffic is TERRIBLE on the weekends so leave LOTS of time or go extra early, ok? Learn from our mistakes!
It is possible to get to the hotel by train too. There is a direct train (65 mins) from Tokyo Station to Oiso Station ( and then a 7 minute cab ride).
More details here
OUTDOOR SUGGESTION 3:
Or another way to get out on the water is to take a Yakatabune dinner cruise.
A really, really fun thing to do with either a large group or even just as a couple is take a Yakatabune. This is a Japanese-style booze cruise. You pay a set amount for a tempura and sashimi dinner, free flowing drinks and karaoke on board. Prices vary depending on times and group numbers but it’s safe to assume that you’ll pay around 11,000 yen per person. Some of my friends didn’t love all the food but…give me a giant platter or sashimi and free-flowing wine and beer….and I’m the happiest lady in the city.
You don’t have to wear a yukata or kimono – but I think it adds to the fun, no?
I loved walking on the roof of the boat. The view was spectacular.
We’ve used a company called Yakabune Funasei. Be sure to book ahead to make sure you get your preferred time.
From JR Shinagawa station Konan exit the walk takes 13 minutes following the Shinagawa Grand Commons Passage (Level 2) and taking the escalator to the ground level from the JR Shinagawa station Takanawa exit. Alternatively, you could take a 5 minute taxi from the ground level of the Takanawa Exit of Shinagawa Station.
YAKATABUNE FUNASEI
1-16-8 KITA-SHINAGAWA, SHINAGAWA
WEBSITE
TAKE PART IN SUMMER FESTIVALS
I highly recommend making the most of all the Japanese summer festivals. Including all of those amazing Summer firework sessions. You’ll love it so much. It’s just good, clean, fun with the most lovely yummy street food.
My favourite fireworks festival is Sumidagawa Fireworks festival (at the end of July 2018 – it is weather dependent. )
I believe it is worth visiting the Summer festivals is Mitama Matsuri and Ebisu Bon Odori.
PLAN PART OF THE DAY INDOORS
Unless you’re by a pool or at the beach, I recommend planning at least one indoor activity for the hottest part of the day.
INDOOR SUGGESTION 1:
Tokyo has incredible amazing museums.
Why not check out Tokyo Weekender and Tokyo Timeout for the latest exhibits and installations at one of Roppongi’s galleries and museums? I love taking my children to the Mori Art Museum, The National Art Center and the 21_21 Design Sight.
And if you choose to go to the Mori Art Museum, a trip to the observation area is included in your ticket.
THE MORI ART MUSEUM
ROPPONGI HILLS, 6-10-1 ROPPONGI
OPEN EVERYDAY 10AM-10PM EXCEPT TUESDAY FROM 10AM-5PM
WEBSITE
THE NATIONAL ART CENTER, TOKYO
7-22-2 ROPPONGI
MONDAYS, WEDNESDAYS & WEEKENDS 10AM-6PM, FRIDAYS 10AM-8PM, CLOSED TUESDAYS
WEBSITE
21_21 DESIGN SIGHT
THE MIDTOWN GARDEN, 9-7-6 AKASAKA
OPEN 10AM-7PM (CLOSED TUESDAYS)
WEBSITE
INDOOR SUGGESTION 4
Artbar in Daikanyama was one of my most fun date nights yet.
I went with my date – my beautiful friend Kelly – and we chose a session with an extra large abstract piece of art.
I love all things creative so, to be honest, I was a bit worried about not being able to do things my own way – but you are welcome to follow the instructor to the ‘letter’ (stroke?) or completely go your own way.
Included in the price are wine and crackers – it was heaven!
Highly, highly, highly recommend!
I think we were the only ‘couple’ who weren’t female & male – its a great way to spend an evening.
The studio is in Daikanyama.
ARTBAR, DAIKANYAMA
http://artbar.co.jp
INDOOR SUGGESTION 5
(This is a 2 day indoor getaway suggestion)
I would be sure to plan a night away at the Hyatt Regency in Hakone.
This is a Japanese style accommodation with a twist. The rooms and the hot spring baths (sorry but girls and guys have to bathe separately here) are just so beautiful and relaxing. The baths are open 24 hours a day.
I would make sure I was there for check-in at 3pm and leave right at midday the next day. There are so many lovely things to see in Hakone, but I would keep this portion of the trip indoors. The hotel itself is the experience.
And the onsen makes your skin feel soooo amazing
You can choose a Western style bedroom with tatami (gorgeous!) or go for a sleep on a futon together.
The main lobby of the hotel has a large wood pit which creates the most gorgeous cabin-like feel and the smell is just heavenly.
All guests are able to take advantage of the free-pour happy hour in the evening before dinner. It is just the most decadent way to spend the evening.
And then, in the morning? The breakfast is five star. All hot meals cooked to order and you can even eat sashimi – right from the start of the day! When I was there a month or so ago, the chef served the same fresh fish 3 different ways – it was amazing.
You can book directly through the Hyatt Regency Hakone website here.
INDOOR SUGGESTION 6
And also the Team Lab Planets exhibit.
MY FAVOURITE OUTDOOR BRUNCH SPOTS
If you’re looking for somewhere for breakfast (open from 7am ! Almost unheard of for a proper sit down brekkie in these parts!)
It is worth the 13 min walk from Harajuku station and 11 mins from Shibuya, if you crave a western breakfast.
The building is designed so beautifully and it has a large outdoor terrace which makes it extremely kiddie friendly. )
Here is the Full Trunk Menu.
They serve Western-style breakfast.
If you decide to visit in the evening, the hotel interior and bar doesn’t quite feel appropriate for children but the Trunk Kushi (skewered meat & veg) restaurant out the front of the hotel definitely is fine – with outdoor seating and, once again, enough space for a little wriggle.
TRUNK HOTEL (KITCHEN)
渋谷区神宮前5-31-7
5-31-7 JINGUMAE, SHIBUYA
OPEN FOR BREAKFAST: 7:00 A.M. – 10:00 A.M.
OPEN FOR LUNCH: 11:30 A.M. – 3:00 P.M.
OPEN FOR DINNER: 6:00 P.M. – 11:00 P.M.
TRUNK KITCHEN WEBSITE
FRENCH KITCHEN
The French Kitchen at The Grand Hyatt is the perfect place for a long and decadent breakfast or brunch. The Weekend Brunch is absolutely stunning and I recommend the terrace seating.
Check their website or call directly (staff speak English) to see if their price and meal options suit your breakfast budget.
THE FRENCH KITCHEN
ROPPONGI HILLS, 6-10-3 ROPPONGI
ALL DAY DINING
WEBSITE
MY FAVOURITE OUTDOOR LUNCH SPOT
Two Rooms has the most beautiful outdoor terrace. It is located in Kita-Aoyama.
The view is spectacular and the customer service equally as impressive.
TWO ROOMS
AO BUILDING, 3-11-7 KITA-AOYAMA
OPEN FOR LUNCH 11:30AM-2:30PM
OPEN FOR DINNER 6PM-10PM
WEBSITE
Within the T-Site Complex you’ll find Ivy Place. We love dining here at anytime of the day and love lunch and brunch the most. They are well-known for their yummy pancakes. My recent lunch salad was also amazing! (If you live in Japan you’ll understand just how hard a truly good salad is to come by)
IVY PLACE
DAIKANYAMA T-SITE, 16-15 SARUGAKUCHO
OPEN 7am-11pm (BREAKFAST 7AM-10:45AM, LUNCH 11:30AM-3PM, DINNER 6PM-11PM)
(PANCAKES SERVED 7AM-5PM)
IVY PLACE WEBSITE
MY FAVOURITE OUTDOOR COCKTAIL SPOTS (not for kids)
Another suggestion is to have dinner and/or drinks at the rooftop bar at the Andaz. The views are spectacular and, I believe, it is the most beautiful modern hotel in Tokyo. The Rooftop bar actually is a semi-open terrace so it is fine to go even on a rainy night.
There is a cover charge of 2000 yen per person.
ANDAZ TOKYO TORANOMON HILLS
1-23-4 TORANOMON, MINATO
WEBSITE
Happy Summer days, ahead!