If you are climbing Fuji for the first time I recommend making use of the Mt Fuji App. It is in English and is free. The app includes public transport details such as timetables too.
Guest post by Lena Voth of Root and Blossom ( you need to check out what this superwomen does with her own business between Mt. Fuji climbs and general bad-assery.) Read more about Lena at the bottom of this post.
Please note: if you’re looking to climb Mt Fuji in 2023, the huts are booked out which makes for a more dangerous “bullet climb” so please make sure you only attempt this if you are an experienced climber.
“A wise man will climb Mt Fuji once; a fool will climb Mt Fuji twice.” –Japanese Proverb
I’m not sure how the above proverb relates to me as I’ve climbed Fuji four times (cancels the bad juju?) because it is a popular desired experience with visitors, so I’m here to fill in some blanks!
So… Okay friend ….. you’re visiting Japan, you’re in Japan, or you’re just curious -what’s the hype about climbing Mt. Fuji?
So…if climbing, will you need pick things, ropes and helmets?
No. Fuji San is not a technical climb, it’s more like the most luxurious hike up a mountain you’ve ever done in your life but will leave you unable to take the stairs for the following week.
And those squatty potties? Forget about it. I can only speak to one of the several trails up to the summit (The Yoshida), a few times you have to shift it into mountain goat mode and use all fours but when you’re able to stop and buy snickers ever 45 minutes, it ain’t no thang.
Yes, a Snickers ….
… or maybe you fancy Pop Star (Japanese Pringles-esque) or a hot Cup of Noodle?
All are available!
When to climb
Climbing season is July to September and, like anywhere in Japan, there are a number of ways to get to the Yoshida trailhead. The cost of climbing Fuji is free but a small donation is asked of hikers near the beginning of the trails. Other costs include commute to the mountain, parking, toilet use (discussed) below, and purchasing food/drinks along the trail (also discussed below).
Where to start the climb
I have always parked at Fuji Hokuroku Parking lot (pay for the day, cannot leave a car over night without informing) where I caught a bus for a small fee to the fifth station.
The fifth station is the closest station to the top of the mountain that you can get to without hiking. There is a souvenir shop and several restaurants and cafes, and of course, soft serve ice cream! If you want to be on Mt. Fuji without climbing Fuji, this would be your option!
Talking you through the climb
The Yoshida trailhead is about a 10-minute walk on a gravel road, downhill… It’s super confusing, especially with those just coming back down the mountain (because they did the sunrise hike) who are trying to be funny saying, “you’re almost there!” Ha… But alas, you’ve only made it to the trailhead!
So now what? Not going to lie, the first leg of the hike doesn’t do much for the confidence boost – it’s pretty steep – and everyone you are meeting (remember those funny people) look freakin’ exhausted!
Just when you don’t think you’re going to be able to keep up with that kind of incline, you hit the beginning of the switchbacks (zig-zag of a trail to reduce the incline but covers more distance), yay, relief!
About every 45 minutes from here on out you get the luxury of taking a break at a station.
The toilet situation
As much as the weight of hauling a bunch of change up a mountain doesn’t sound enticing – if you want to use a toilet you’re going need all the 100 yen coins!
Toilets are between a 200-300 yen donation, plan for using the toilet frequently because you also need to plan on drinking tons of water to combat the potential elevation sickness… Yes, this is a thing and can be quite debilitating, and what makes climbing Fuji a serious hike.
Fortunately, if you are feeling a lack of oxygen you can also buy personal oxygen tanks at the stations (yes, the Japanese think of everything ) and Mt. Fuji is not the exception.
Could you do it?
There is an old story about a woman climbing up down Fuji in heels (that’s about all to the story), and though I wouldn’t advise it, I’ve seen a woman coming down the mountain in slingback heels.
I’ve also seen a fierce mama bear summiting with a baby on her back in a carrier as well as children and great-grandparents taking the mountain on with success.
So could you climb Fuji?
Yes, I really do believe you can!
If you’re concerned…
If breaking the hike up into two days would give you a vote of confidence, you can stay at one of the few Hotels (and by hotel , I mean a room filled with bunks; not individual bunk beds – think more like the old nursery rhyme ‘Five in a Bed’ but make it more… Sleeping shoulder to shoulder with your new best friend. )
The weather & what to pack
The trickiest part about climbing Mt Fuji is the weather.
On one of my trips, I got sunburnt, soaked to the bone from rain, snowed on and found my self in the middle of a thunder and lightning storm during the course of 5 hours… Even if it feels silly to pack rain gear and a light puffer jacket when it’s a scorching 90’f [32’c] on a beautiful clear blue sky day around the mountain? Do it! She can be pretty unpredictable.
Other items I pack that you might not think about would be a headlamp, extra socks, moleskins, and gum (helps with ear pressure). Other hiking basics would apply.
It’s also super handy to have a set of hiking poles for the trip down as well as some boot waders.
What I wear
Each time I’ve climbed Fuji I’ve worn the same thing: spandex shorts, sports bra, athletic tank, wool socks, hiking boots, hat and sunscreen. Layers that I put on and take off depending on weather would be leggings, long sleeve athletic top, rain jacket, rain pants, gloves and puffer jacket.
The …. errr.. view….
Mt Fuji is not a pretty hike.
I grew up in the luscious Pacific North West in Washington State where hiking is filled with glorious beauty. You won’t find that here.
If you’re fortunate enough to have the cloud cover break – seeing the pockets of city and lakes down below is lovely – but know that hiking Mt. Fuji is more about experiencing the quirkiness of hiking Mt. Fuji.
If you want breathtaking, “burning into the back of your memory” views, do the sunrise hike – THAT is a glorious beauty.
And at the very top?
Depending on the summit you get to, there is a post office at the top, more soft served ice cream, cold beer, coffee, ramen, curry… This is what hiking Mt Fuji is about!
There is a trail around the crater that connects all the summits if you really want to get wild.
Comparing all of my climbs to date
Every one of my hikes has been different, even though it’s been the same trail. Some of the mistakes I have made include not using the last available toilet on the trek down, under drinking, wearing brand new hiking boots, carrying too few small coins, and not reapplying sunscreen.
Much of the experience like anything in life is a reflection of the people you choose to have that experience with; some of my greatest laughs have been on that mountain.
So please, don’t be shy or afraid of Mt. Fuji, go for it, be empowered and experience one of the most unique hikes this good earth has to offer.
Lena Voth is the founder of Root and Blossom LLC, a lifestyle goods brand meant to spark joy and support a life of purpose. Lena is a wife and mother of two little boys living outside of Tokyo, Japan. Over the last two years she has accomplished her MBA and plans to use the education to grow her business; reaching the lives of more women- equipping them with the tools to achieve and believe. Follow along through Instagram at @rootandblossom .
Would you also like to guest post for The Tokyo Chapter? Please send me an email at contactjoatthetokyochapter@gmail.com
