Tokyo is not just a fabulous place for seeking Harajuku girls, robots and colourful cakes. There are so many stunning places to also take in a more traditional side of Japan without wandering too far from the hustle and bustle.
Happo-en is our favourite ‘hidden’ Japanese garden. It’s a famous wedding and shichigosan (children’s coming of age ceremony) venue and is open early in the morning. Entrance to the garden is free and there is a bakery/cafe for breakfast, tea time and lunch.
If you come with a stroller I recommend leaving it in the venue hall as, like almost all Japanese gardens, there are lots of large stepping stones and stairs. Keep an eye on children as there is a pond with fish. Keep an eye out for the bonsai display at the top of the hill (on display year round) and the teahouse down the bottom (reservations required.)
It’s a fantastic place for an early morning stroll and a cup of tea or coffee. There is a bakery/cafe (with the most terrible name “Thrush”) and if you’re lucky enough to grab a balcony seat , you can look over the garden while you have a cuppa. This restaurant is also recommended on the Halal in Japan website.
HAPPOEN
1-1-1 SHIROKANEDAI, MINATO
港区白金台1-1-1
OPEN: 10AM – 10PM ( CLOSED OVER THE NEW YEAR HOLIDAYS)
WEBSITE
Meiji Shrine is located on the edge of Yoyogi Park and the walk into the shrine is just as spectacular as the shrine itself. You wont believe that you are only just over the train tracks from busy Harajuku. On weekends you will almost always be able catch a traditional Japanese wedding (ask the staff when the next procession will begin.) There are toilets in several locations on the path to the shrine. The shrine is free to enter.
1-1 KAMIZONO-CHO, YOYOGI
代々木神園町1-1
OPENING HOURS CHANGE MONTHLY (SEE HERE FOR MORE INFORMATION)
WEBSITE
Not far from Tokyo Dome is Nezu Shrine. A beautiful slice of history and beauty – a little minature Kyoto. If you’re lucky enough, you will be there for a festival with the yatai (food stalls) and street food selection. The little tunnel of red tori gates is my favourite part.
Admission is free (when its Azalea season – mid to late spring- it is 200 yen to enter the Azalea area. Kids under school age are free.)
NEZU SHRINE
1-28-9 NEZU, BUNKYO
文京区根津1-28-9
OPEN: 6AM-6PM
*Oh, and just an FYI, if you’re coming from Skytree, take Toei Bus 26 to Nezu Shrine.
Have you seen those waving cats in the entrance ways of many traditional stores in Japan? In Japan they are called maneki neko (the welcoming /lucky cat.) The story of this cat began at this temple and, as the story tells it, that very cat is buried within the temple grounds. These cats are a symbol of luck.
I was so lucky when I visited as my kiddies were both in a fantastic mood but, if I was to visit again, I don’t think I’d take them on such a hot day or without being armed with more snacks and other entertainment. Firstly, because there really isn’t much else in the immediate vicinity except for the temple and some lovely old Japanese houses, secondly, because the bathroom facilities were a bit rustic ( Japanese style portaloos) and thirdly, because those cats are almost all made of plaster and I was terrified my little boy was going to try and start a smashing party.
As for me, the gardens are sooooo quiet and serene. I found the whole visit very peaceful.
After seeing all of the cats, the “done” thing is to purchase your own cat figure (smallest options are 300 and 500 yen), make a wish and then return your figurine to the collection of cats perched at the shrine.
When you purchase a cat, the staff give you a printed out copy of the original story of the maneki neko (in English or Japanese.) I won’t spoil the story for you. * We purchased extra cats so we had some to take home too. …. bribery in it’s finest form for little people.
If your little biddy person is a collector, you may want ask at Gotokuji Station for an Eki Stampu (a station stamp) for your notepad or stamp book. Very kawaii.
GOTOKUJI (THE LUCKY CAT TEMPLE)
東京都世田谷区豪徳寺2-24-7
2-24-7 GOTOKUJI, SETAGAYA, TOKYO
OPEN: 6AM-6PM
PRICE: FREE
ACCESS: CLOSEST STATIONS ARE MIYANOSHITA & GOTOKUJI
I can’t believe I didn’t go here earlier! Did you know there is a beautiful old Japanese house right in the middle of Daikanyama? Only 2 minutes walk from Daikanyama T-site!
This house was designated as an ‘Important Cultural Property’ in 2004.
The property is called Kyu Asakura House and entry is 100 yen.
I’ve written in detail and included more tips and pics of Kyu Asakura House here.
If you’re about to leave Tokyo and wish you’d been able to see more Japanese people in their most beautiful formal, traditional wear – I highly recommend visiting the Hotel Gajoen on a weekend (lunch time onwards.)
This is a beautiful traditional hotel with a stunning garden – small enough to explore in a short amount of time.
This hotel is the venue of choice for many weddings and special occasions.
I recommend turning up in some dressy-ish clothing, preparing kiddies that they will need to be quiet and well-behaved and taking a stroll through the small garden (including the path up behind the waterfall) and then a walk down the length of the hotel.
The most casual of all of the restaurants available is the new Kanade Terrace (some of the garden and waterfall can be seen from the restaurant seating too.) This restaurant has a buffet menu at different times of the day and cake & cocktail hours too. They also do a kids plate at most times of the day that includes california rolls, sandwiches and a dessert flan.
HOTEL GAJOEN
目黒区下目黒1-8-1
1-8-1 SHIMOMEGURO, MEGURO
WEBSITE
And then, there is the famous Asakusa’s Sensoji Temple.
Warning: this place is very busy so you’ll need to talk about holding hands and staying together first.
*Also, boring nagging Mum PSA: We also talked about being respectful (or at least trying to be as toddlers find this hard, of course) as this is a special place. I wish I could’ve also pulled aside some of the grownup tourists for a talking to – hahaha. Oh my god, I’m that Mum right now, aren’t I?
If you’re in the area really early in the morning (before all of the little market-stall type shops open) it’s still worth a walk with kiddies as most of the pull-down doors have cool pictures on the outside (on Nakamise Street) and the temple is, of course, always there (ie. its great for photos and a quieter experience but you’ll miss the hustle and bustle – the kimonos, the Japanese rickshaws and the food -but it’s lovely for photography or if you just want to do the whole Sensoji experience a lot quicker with children.)
Sensoji
We managed with one walking /hand holding child and one stroller. There is a small elevator up to the middle part of the temple.
(FYI There are lots of public bathrooms around too – with change tables as well.)
To be honest, my kids weren’t sure that they wanted to go to the main temple part but once they were in there they loved the vibe.
We were last there on a Saturday afternoon and you could hear the monks chanting and there were a lot of young women in Kimono as it was the week of the Coming of Age Day. There were also lots of tourists from other parts of Asia who had decided to make the day feel more authentic in a Kimono too (if you want to do the same – there a lots of places along the streets leading up to the temple. )
My daughter really loved throwing in a coin and making a wish,the giant lanterns at the entrance and the beautiful murals on the ceiling.
Many people add to the giant pit of incense sticks at the base of the temple (which is so special in itself) and my little girl and boy said the smoke looked like “magic” and, you know what? I tend to agree!
2-3-1 ASAKUSA, TAITO-KU
台東区浅草
2-3-1MAIN HALL OPEN 6AM-5PM (FROM 6:30AM OCT-MAR)
**Check out my post The Asakusa Area with Kids” for more ideas in this area – including a fantastic surburban playground – just nearby.
Hie Shrine
Hie Shrine is in Akasaka and although it is small – it’s a great little stop-off if you’re in the area.
The Torii gates make for great photos too.
It’s 6 minutes in a cab from Tokyo Midtown in Roppongi ( or 20 minutes walk on foot – which is what we did. )
There are a lot of steep stairs ( although its not a hike or anything – still an inner city shrine) so, if you’re travelling with kids and a stroller , it could be a bit tricky.
There are restrooms in the main building.
If you wanted to be up to date on the temple etiquette, their English page on the shrine website is pretty good.
HIE SHRINE
千代田区永田町2-10-5
2-10-5 NAGATACHO, CHIYODA-KU
WEBSITE ( THEIR ENGLISH PAGE OF THE WEBSITE IS PRETTY GOOD)
OPEN 5AM-6PM (APRIL – SEPTEMBER)
OPEN 6AM-5PM (OCTOBER-MARCH)
