Written by Guest Blogger Lin de Leeuwerk.
Lin de Leeuwerk moved from Tokyo to Kyoto with her young family almost one year ago.
Lin is originally from the Netherlands.
Lin is a freelance photographer and is transitioning her family to a plant-based and zero waste lifestyle.
I recommend following Lin on instagram @healthyexpatmama but to find her photography work and her Healthy Expat Mama blog about a plant based lifestyle and zero waste for families on her website ByLin Photography.
Lin has been so generous in this post, sharing her family’s favourite outdoor play spots, kid-friendly cafes and restaurants. I also love real tips from locals who can also save you the bother of not visiting the spots that aren’t really worth it.
Hi there from Kyoto where I’ve been living for almost a year now!
Time really flies by when you’re having fun!
99% of my time here I spend away from the crowds that are now such a familiar sight in Kyoto. Buses upon buses of tourists, ticking off the top 5 to-do in Kyoto – on which Jo has
already given the inside info and advice here, on this blog, on how to dodge the crowds.
So here’s a little insight into how we would recommend spending a day off with kids: with a bit of play, a bit of culture and a lot of food!
Rent a bike!
First of all – it would be best if you could rent a bike because it will make your day so easy and so much fun!
Often guesthouses and hotels have bikes for rent, otherwise just have a google to see which rental place is closest to where you’re staying.
Kyoto is super easy with it’s grid-like set up so it’s not hard to find your way.
Unlike Tokyo it’s not very hilly, so you can get around on a normal bicycle and there is not really a need for an electrical option.
The photo above was taken by @IvodeBruijnphotography
From May onwards, don’t forget to use sunscreen or a water bottle as it can get hot.
You can refill in most cafes, in playgrounds and along the river are water fountains.
Cycling is allowed on the pavement, but a lot of the roads actually have a bike lane on the road or a bike path on the pavement, indicated in a different color.
If you’re taking the narrow neighborhood streets, please be careful at the little crossings as it is often hard to look around the corner for oncoming traffic.
Cycle around Nijo Castle / Gosho Imperial palace gardens
Nijo castle, on one of the main roads Horikawa, is fun to ride around, but to be honest, I wouldn’t bother with a tour – not too much to see there, in my opinion; the wall and the towers are the best parts and you can see those from the outside!
Stop for coffee and a vegan or vegetarian breakfast
The good thing about Nijo castle is that it is close to Cafe Phalam, a vegan / vegetarian friendly cafe that is spacious and even has a basket with toys.
It is perfect for great coffee and a Western or Japanese breakfast as they open up at 9am.
*Cafe Phalam is a non-smoking cafe – although smoking is allowed on the terrace.
Cafe Phalam is open weekdays 9AM- 8PM & weekends 9AM-7PM
Take a quintessential “We are in Japan” family photo
When cycling to or from there, check out the little temple and garden Shinsen-en; there is a cute red bridge. It’s a beautiful quick photo-op. Typical Japanese backdrop for the family pic done!
Stop for coffee and a freshly baked doughnut
Also on Horikawa but a bit further north than Nijo is ‘Kamo Donut & Coffee’, a delicious shop with a handful of chairs that does coffee and freshly made donuts from 9 am every morning except Tuesdays.
Let kids paddle in the river
Opposite that shop Horikawa has, as the name suggests, a little stream (Kawa means river) which is sunken and a perfect place for the kids to dip their feet in the water or hop over the stepping stones whilst the parents enjoy coffee on the stone benches.
The river is lined with the type of cherry tress that have round fluffy pink flowers and bloom after the usual sakura season. It’s a very special sight.
Two fantastic spots in the area around the Gosho Imperial Gardens
Gosho Imperial Gardens, eastwards on the next big north-south street Karasuma, is close by and although the park itself is quite straight forward with broad gravel paths, it has 2 places that are fantastic.
In the south west is a little stream surrounded by weeping cherry blossom (also late bloomers!) which is also perfect for kids to potter around in.
Then, in the north west is a playground, which is usually quiet (except for sakura time, as it is the only place in the park that has big sakura trees. You may notice – a lot in Kyoto is about blooms or streams!).
Try the snacks that are made, and loved, by the locals
Usually, from there, we exit the park in north east direction, towards the big Y in the Kamogawa River.
Close by is Demachiyanagi shopping street, a little arcade with lots of ‘mom & pop’ shops selling sushi, fruits & veg, tofu, tempura, fresh noodles, donuts & ice cream, etc.
It is the perfect place to pick up some lunch to bring to the river! Cafes: “Light up coffee” and “Caffe Epica” are right there too, for a take away coffee – Light up offers ¥100 discount if you have your own travel mug.
Sit down for family-friendly, healthy lunch
If you just want to have lunch in a family-friendly restaurant, you could cross the river to Falafel Garden for a quick bite.
They also have a box of toys and normal and tatami seating (which is great with kids.)
They also have some tables in their small garden.
Paddle and jump from rock to rock at another beautiful river spot
At the Y in the river you’ll find big stepping stones too, some shaped as turtles & birds, and the water is the perfect depth for kids to play (unless a typhoon has just passed by…)
It seems like tourists on bikes usually get to that point and turn back south to central Kyoto, so if you want to enjoy a bit of a quieter area I would suggest to bike along the left side of the river further north, say somewhere around where Kitaoji dori ends, where there is more shade and also some sets of stepping stones.
Sit with the locals there! You’ll probably find my family there too if it is a weekend day.
Finish the day with Tacos and Burritos
Usually, we end the day at Que Pasa (on Kawaramachi, the next big north-south street east of Karasuma), a tex-mex taco / burrito place with vegan options – it’s tiny but usually if you come early around 5.30/6.00 pm you can get a table. Very affordable and the guys who run it are super nice.
Que Pasa is also close to School Bus Coffee Stop, a fantastic spacious coffee place with little school buses for order numbers – those that you pull back and they race!
Needless to say we usually keep the buses to play with as long as we’re there!
Or, maybe, Pizza?
Another option for lunch or dinner if you have headed up river towards Kita (the northern ward of Kyoto) and the botanical gardens (which in my humble opinion you can leave for what they are) is Premarche Pizzeria & Alternative Junk food. Here you can have amazing vegan (and non-vegan) burgers for lunch, pizzas for dinner and ice cream all day long.
They have about 20 flavors of ice-cream of which many are vegan or dairy-free, and all the allergens are well indicated in English.
If you’re still going strong or are just looking for more additional options….
Shrine with a playground next door
Some other interesting sights in my ‘hood that I love;On Horikawa, just next to the Suika Tenmangu Shrine is a fantastic playground (Tenjin park).
The shrine itself has a beautiful weeping sakura tree, and the playground has a little grove of 5 sakura trees.
Explore the local streets and temples
Opposite the playground, on the other side of the … street-with-no-name ( * see map below) , is another tiny playground more geared towards smaller children. This playground sits on the corner of ‘tea street’, a beautiful old fashioned street that is often filled with kimono clad ladies going to tea ceremonies (the area is called Dodocho when you search on Googlemaps, or find Horikawa-teranouchi). Take your time to explore the street and the temples in there, where the only people you see are usually the kindergarten kids and teachers going from the school bus stop to their school, crossing the temple gardens.
Stop here for another playground play and a light meal or coffee
Another little lunch / coffee place in the area is Thread Cafe, coincidentally opposite another playground, on Kamidachiuri dori, just a 5 minute ride from the area mentioned above. I love the homey surf/beach feel of this bright place, and the entrance is very instagrammable. They have coffee, a lunchplate and even some games to play! I would recommend to check the opening times on the internet though, as they close a bit irregular. Click here for Thread Cafe’s website.
This is the entrance. A small corridor from the street.
Visit 24 sub temples, described as a ‘City within Walls’
If you’re not templed-out yet but still not ready for the crowds, you should head a bit further north on Horikawa to the Daitokuji Temple complex. It is described as a ‘city within walls’ with 24 sub temples, of which only 8 are open to the public and some others are open 1 or 2 months of the year only to showcase their beautiful autumn leaves, rock gardens or spring trees.
I love this area as it is so quiet and mystical, with beautiful buildings and fun little cobbled streets in between with no through traffic, so a safe place for the kids to roam around and explore.
Visit a cafe in an old bath house
Close to the Daitokuji complex south side, on Kuramaguchi Dori, is a place that has been on my ‘want to go’ list for a while – Sarasa Nishjin. A cafe in an old bath house, with a great atmosphere and vegetarian and vegan options for lunch and snack time. My friend recommended it and the reviews online are lovely. I really must go!
Eat some beautiful ( and a bit special in terms of vibe and price vegan temple food)
If you’re following Kuramaguchi Dori towards the river, you will also pass Kanga An, a beautiful temple and (high end) restaurant that serves Fucha Ryori cuisine, vegan temple food.
It is the best and most beautiful I’ve ever had, but not so suitable with kids, I’m afraid.
The entrance is beautiful with many buddhist statues and they are open for a viewing during the day (13.00 – 22.00) for a small fee, but they’re a bit secretive about it.
Take a photo with the red tori gates
Around the corner is the impressive Goryo-Jinta Shrine
where you can find a set of about 10 red tori gates similar to the ones in Fushimi Inari. Cute photo spot!
Extra tip for a convenient shopping centre recommendation
Lastly a practical tip in the north: on Kitaoji (the main street of Kita-ku) you will find Vivre; a local shopping centre with a supermarket, Starbucks, an international foods shop (Dutch stroopwafels and English tea biscuits, if you’re craving them!), a Mr Donut with a small soft play area and free coffee re-fill and some clothing / home decor shops like Uniqlo.
If you have enjoyed this post by Lin, I am 100 % sure you will also love her advice on Zero Waste Travel here.
Lin de Leeuwerk moved from Tokyo to Kyoto with her young family almost one year ago.
Lin is a freelance photographer and is transitioning her family to a plant-based and zero waste lifestyle.
I recommend following Lin on instagram @healthyexpatmama but to find her photography work and here Healthy Expat Mama blog about a plant based lifestyle and zero waste for families on her website ByLin Photography.
Lin has been so generous in this post, sharing her family’s favourite outdoor play spots, kid-friendly cafes and restaurants. I also love real tips from locals who can also save you the bother of not visiting the spots that aren’t really worth it.
