The only way to get away Tokyo is on the train and the subway… that’s what I keep hearing everyone saying.
But it’s not your only option and I recommend mixing it up when travelling with children.
Train & Subway
It’s true that the subway/train system is so so clean and and reliable. It’s also so cheap too.
*If you’re worried about riding on peak times. I would avoid the main train lines (particularly heading TOWARDS major cities) between 8am-9:30am and, although its more spread out in the evenings, probably best to avoid 5:30-7:30pm. If you’re riding the bullet train during these times at these times OR anytime on weekends – especially Sunday afternoons and evenings? You WILL need a reserved seat. Trust me – from a person who decided to wing it and had to stand for way too long.
Hopefully the upcoming Olympics will bring about change but, right now, a large proportion of Tokyo stations do not have elevators at all. So…even if the station on my side has an elevator, I have no guarantee that I’ll be able to get out easily at the other end – and changing trains in the middle can often make life a bit more difficult too.
Please don’t let this turn you off train travel completely – the system is like no other! It’s safe and clean and not half as crowded as everyone imagines (as long as you don’t get a train between 8am-10am, of course.)
If I had just one child (or if even one of them was in baby carrier or big enough to walk on their own -my “baby” is a giant human so I couldn’t carry him for long) I don’t think this would be quite as tricky for me. But, as my kids are just 23 months apart I still needed (and we walk A LOT so still do) a double stroller.
So that means that when I’m alone and reach the stairs, I often need to take children out of the stroller, make one walk and usually carry another while pulling up a stroller (or relying on a kind stranger or staff member to help with that bit.) Some subways have as many as 6 flights of stairs in a row – that’s a lot of wine and cheese I would need to consume in the late evening to justify all of that work. (!)
It’s not impossible (and even easier on the weekends when my husband can join us on our adventures) but I’d be lying if I said I didn’t avoid the subway and over-ground train travel when I have both kids with me. (Sorry to those Mummies that must be thinking I’m soft!)
When I really have to though, I do my research on stations with elevators and if there is a transfer to make in the middle , I sometimes use google maps (another reason why I think it’s vital to have internet while you’re in Japan as I mentioned in my Preparing For Your Tokyo Chapter post ) to calculate how much longer it would be to walk at least part of the way instead (but I love walking and taking in the city and I know that’s not for everyone.)
This site Japan Accessible has a list of stations equipped with elevators – incase you want to check before you head off for the day.
On foot
But I wanted to talk about something that so many people miss when they first arrive here.
So much of Tokyo is actually walkable!
Seriously ! For things in the city centre – and if you have a stroller (especially with a sleeping child) it really is worth popping your final destination in Google Maps and seeing more of the city along your way.
Also, I highly recommend walking as much as possible. Tokyo’s city neighbourhoods sound like they are far apart but you’ll be surprised how close they can be. Something to consider? You’ll get more of the “vibe” of different neighbourhoods this way anyway. If it rains we jump in a taxi as you can probably expect to pay about 1000 yen for about 10 -15 minute drive (a bit more at night.)
Here is a list to give you an idea of walking time required…
Then, for the days when I catch the train we try and avoid a heavy stroller. I purchased a Japanese stroller – an Aprica. It weighs 3.3 kgs so I can easy carry it while holding two sets of little hands. That helps.
So please take a look at my area guides, here, and see what places are walkable and take in more of the city and find more little hidden alleyways and undiscovered treats.
Taxi
Before you roll your eyes – I’m not suggesting you throw away all of your money to the Japanese taxi system but … bear with me for a minute.
I highly recommend keeping taxis in mind for breakdowns – between a couple of tricky stations without elevators – or sudden rainy or ridiculously steamy weather (if you’ve been in Japan in the hottest part of Summer, you’ll know what I’m talking about. )
If you are anxious about the cost you can use this site to get a rough idea ahead of time . I usually keep in mind that the initial minimal amount is 410 yen and then I’d expect about 1000 yen for every 10 minutes of travel. (If it’s a short trip and 4 people, that can sometimes be only slightly more for train tickets anyway.)
When riding in a Japanese taxi remember that the back passenger door will open and close automatically – and the taxi drivers get very upset if you close the door yourself. And with kids in a cab, if their little legs are too small to reach the edge of the seat – it’s best to remove their shoes so that they don’t get the seats dirty. I have a gazillion more Tokyo taxi tips here.
