If you’re up for a truly authentic, slow-travel getaway in Japan – keep reading! You’re going to LOVE this place.
This was my first trip to Kinosaki Onsen and I was delighted to see the large number of young Japanese families visiting this beautiful peace of Japan.
I’m not 100% percent sure why but I assumed I would be sharing hot baths with groups of older women or bumping into loved-up couples in yukatas shuffling up and down the street.
But once I’d checked into my accommodation and had enough time to catch my breath and the vibe I noticed all the happy families. And not just Mum + Dad + Kids but extended families .. Granny and Grandpa were also along for the ride… I’m pretty sure there were some great grannies in the mix too – but it’s hard to say because Japanese women, in particular, have mastered the art of ageless magic and I was just there to try and keep up, basically.
Young families, and extended families, travel to gorgeous out-of-town locations to relax, for the health benefits of relaxing and the healing properties of the hot springs themselves in order to eat delicious, fresh local produce AND to spend quality time together ( and often with grandparents or other relatives as Japanese homes rarely accommodate staying visitors so it’s more common to spend hardcore family time in a third location – in a similar light to Australians all gathering at a beach house together for holidays together, for example.)
So it’s best to think of your family Kinosaki holiday as a chill-out family time + a slow-life countryside vacation.
It is the place to really let Japanese culture, food and nature just kind of happen around you … and kind of to you.
And I honestly can’t say this about too many quaint towns in Japan right now but it’s actually still relatively untouched by international tourists ( however, can become busy with domestic visitors on long weekends and national holidays.)
In order to make the most of your holiday in Kinosaki, I recommend searching for accommodation with gorgeous scenery, space and walking distance from the Main Street of town ( Kinosaki is not a large town so most of the accommodation options are based along the main street with a shallow canal that runs right down the middle.)
I think this is the perfect place to splurge on a really lush hotel and hotel room.
You will spend more time in the room than you would in other parts of Japan and, if you do your research, you can fully immerse yourself in traditional Japanese style accommodation.
Before making a reservation, it is worth checking to see if the following is included within the hotel price:
Do they have a complimentary shuttle buses that travel around town?
Do they include the onsen pass to use all of the local onsens as much as you like?
Is breakfast and/or dinner included?
And now, in Japan, it is getting quite popular for guests to purchase a “room only” rate so you might want to check if that is an option at the hotel you have in mind.
Traditional futon style beds are more common options when choosing accommodation. Western bedding is not impossible to find but , my personal opinion ? I think if you’ve chosen Kinosaki for your family forest/mountain getaway then why not jump all in and embrace the whole authentic Japanese vibe.
WHAT IS THE ONSEN PASS AND WHAT IS INCLUDED?
The onsen pass costs 1,300 yen outright although is included in the price of most Kinosaki accommodation options ( with all ryokans that are a part of the Ryokan Association, which is 90% of the ryokans within Kinosaki.)
Private baths for families are available to use for 3,150 yen for 45 minutes in 2 of the 7 public baths (Ichino-yu and Jizou-yu). Please note that you will need identification to prove that you are family / a couple who live at the same address in order to reserve these facilities.
Should you decide to not use an onsen pass and just pay per bathhouse, each onsen is a 700 yen for adults and 350 yen for children and tickets can be purchased from a vending machine at an entrance. This is a great option if you’re only visiting Kinosaki for a day trip. The only slightly more expensive bath is Satono-yu which is 800 yen for adults and 400 yen for children.
WHAT MAKES KINOSAKI DIFFERENT TO OTHER JAPANESE TOWNS?
Kinosaki is known as a hot spring town and the idea is you purchase a pass for the public hot springs in town ( check as the pass may already be included with your accommodation.) Then, once you have arrived, you change into the yukata and geta ( those wooden footwear, kind of resembling clogs, used for the Japanese bathhouses) and then you can, pretty much, any time of the day or night you can wander between the bathhouses.
And just when you think that you have tried them all ? Then, mix it up and visit at different times of the day as all of the bathhouses are separated by gender and two of the public baths have a different theme and so the gender specified side is switched daily.
The town is quaint and oozes character at everyone corner.
The other major difference between Kinosaki and other country getaways in town is the open-minded approach to tattoos.
The majority of public baths and hot springs in Japan have extremely strict rules about even the smallest of tattoos ( as do most public swimming pools, actually) but Kinosaki is celebrated for its more liberal and accepting approach.*
*The only exception is the rules of private bath houses within some hotels so, if you have concerns it is best to contact the hotel before making a reservation.
If you are looking for hot springs or swimming pools throughout other parts in Japan that do allow tattooed bodies, please use the Tattoo-Friendly Japan website here (this is a full and comprehensive list.)
PACKING FOR KINOSAKI WITH KIDS
Great news – you don’t need to pack lots and lots of clothing! The onsen hotels provide yukata which can be your day clothing and nightwear too!
Just like I suggest in my Packing for Japan with Kids blogpost it is really going to make life so much easier if everyone has easily slip on and off shoes. Leave the long laces and heavily buckled shoes at home.
I also recommend bringing some books and/or iPads as the accommodation in Kinosaki is pretty old school and it is very unlikely that there will be any English television options.
I also recommend bringing some snacks for the first day for children until you find your bearings and locate the supermarket etc for healthy and easy options. (If you’re shopping for healthy options in a Japanese convenience store, my tips and suggestions are here.)
TRAVELLING TO KINOSAKI ONSEN
It, of course, depends on the time of day you travel but this is the route I took from Kyoto Station and I found it to be so relaxing and so beautiful.
I purchased the ticket for all the way thru to Ebara Station at Kyoto Station. ( I got off one station earlier at Ebara as I wanted to see the cute little town of Izushi first but the same train would have continued on to Kinosaki Onsen.)
This is an express train not a bullet train.
Oh and don’t worry about that one minute transfer. The next train is on the same platform – just the opposite side.
I think it was worth paying 1950 yen extra to reserve a window seat and enjoy the view.
Both trains had toilets and rubbish bins on board.
And on the way back I managed to get a direct train between Kinosakionsen and Kyoto Station.
And incase your traveling with a baby in nappies/diapers, the train toilets do have these baby seats inside the cubicle and a fold down change table.
It is also possible to travel to Kinosaki by bus from Osaka or Kobe. It takes around 3 hours.
When leaving Kinosaki by bus, you can book tickets at the Tourist Information Centre and then wait in the lovely modern centre facilities and stay nice and warm ( or cool in Summer) while you wait.
YOUR FIRST DAY IN KINOSAKI
The tourist information centre is right next to Kinosaki Station so this is a great place to visit first – ask about local events of the day, possible rent bikes, ask about crafting or cooking workshops etc.
It’s also a good idea to ask here about dining and tourist spot options for during your stay. This will save you a lot of investigation ( or potential disappointment) later.
Please be aware that Kinosaki small businesses are often closed on Wednesdays or Thursdays so, if travelling on those days, be sure to check the website of the restaurants or tourist spots you would like to visit in advance ( or ask your hotel for assistance.)
If you don’t have dinner included with your accommodation, it is important to check which the information centre as to what is open between 6am – 8pm as many of the local restaurants close their doors during these hours as the majority of their customers return to their hotels/ ryokans to eat and then come out to the city again for a bath and then a late night shop, snack or drink.
EXPLORING THE TOWN OF KINOSAKI
The town of Kinosaki is small and quaint enough to take in the whole town, from one end to the other, in a maximum of 30 minutes on foot.
Most of the larger hotels also offer complimentary shuttle buses around town for their guests who want to jump on and off throughout the day. When the weather is nice, I highly recommend walking as much as possible so that you get to really drink in all those small town vibes and details properly,
It’s like a fairytale.
The first thing you will notice are all of the people walking around the streets in yukata ( a light kimono with a provided heavier jacket for the cooler months.)
This is one of the most famous bathhouses in Kinosaki called Ichinoyu.
The main thing to do in Kinosaki if take time to really enjoy the city. Starting with the hot spring baths.
The idea is to try them all!
For suggestions outside of the bath tub..
If you would like to sample the famous Tajima Beef I recommend popping in to Premium Tajima Beef: Kyusho Ueda. It is, essentially, a high end butcher but they also sell hot takeaway food too such as croquettes, deep fried mince cutlets, slices of steak on skewers, beef on rice bentos etc.
Sorry to take away from the whole traditional vibe but in town there is also small, but very cute, amusement centre called Takaraya.
There are arcade games, crane games and print club machines.
Please note that children under 16 are not permitted to enter after 10pm. Outside food and drink is also not allowed.
Incase you’re not sure what print club is – it is the photo booths that then print out as tickets ( it’s so Japanese and really so much fun!)
It is open from 10AM – 11PM.
*And this is not one for the kiddies BUT there is a pachinko parlor (children not allowed) a few doors down that is so deliciously old school! Not noisy and bustling like the huge pachinko parlors in Osaka or Tokyo.
There are also some shateki shooting galleries for families and adults. It is kind of like those shooting games at a school carnival. They are just across the road from the photo sticker booths.
If you are looking to shop for souvenirs there is a shop in town called Marusan. It opens at 8AM-10:30PM ( closes for an hour or so around dinner time though. ) They also serve soft-serve ice-cream, beer and nikuman ( steamed buns with meat inside.)
And if you’re looking for a fresh juice ( or a fresh juice cocktail) along the river you’ll find a shop called Kinosaki Juice Saika. Open everyday 9AM-11PM.
Take a foot bath in a dessert cafe
There is a sweets cafe just 1 min walk from Kinosaki Station called Kinosaki Ashiyu Cafe.
Foot bath use is free for customers. Choose an ice cream or a cake.
Pets are allowed in the cafe section so you may get to meet a few new furry friends too.
All desserts are around 1000 yen. Please note that this is a cash only cafe. The entire venue is non-smoking.
KINOSAKI ASHIYU CAFE
OPEN EVERYDAY
MY NUMBER ONE HOT TIP IN KINOSAKI…
In terms of ease and value for money in the most extravagant way possible, I can most certainly recommend paying the 2000 yen per adult for one full day use of the Sanpou Salon on the main road in Kinosaki. Personally, I think that this is worth doing every single day you are here.
This is a luxurious lounge/ private nibbles/ reading space that also welcomes children.
All day tapas, soft drinks, alcoholic drinks ( I mean, can we just talk about the wine vending machine for a second?) and access to books on Japanese history. Its just a gorgeous place to take a breather.
And downstairs in the same building is the stunning Japanese style dining restaurant called Sanpou Nishimuraya Honten – one of the BEST MEALS I’VE EVER EVER EVER EATEN IN MY LIFE. I highly recommend and have written about it in detail here.
EXPLORING KINOSAKI IN THE EARLY MORNING
If, like me, you’re a morning person, you might like to explore on foot and see the fishmonger shops bring in the morning crab catch ( November- March.) The size of the crabs ( and the size of their price tag) is something to be seen!
Also, 2 of the 5 of the foot baths are open 24 hours a day so you could take those feet for a little spa! I would head to the foot spa outside the onsen “Ichinoyu.”
I also just recommend a lovely stroll along the river in the centre of town ( actually I recommend doing this at any time of day, actually.)
If you get stuck at all, there is an information centre for visitors right in front of Kinosaki Station. English is spoken fluently here.
If you’re visited Kinosaki between November and March you will notice just how crab crazy this town gets for crab season. It is incredible to get up early and see the seafood deliveries come into the main fishmonger in town. Crabs can be seen in the morning and afternoon (but, of course, there are more first thing in the morning). Get there around 9 in the morning for freshly delivered fish.
And if you’re looking for breakfast, Cafe & Bar “Third” serves breakfast until 10AM ( I also recommend their veggie-laden “Fresh Local Plate” at lunchtime.) The entire restaurant is non-smoking. They only accept cash. They have space for strollers inside the restaurant.
A simple toast, salad, egg breakfast is approximately 500 yen. It includes a hot drink too.
TAKING THE KINOSAKI ROPEWAY UP TO MOUNT DAISHI & ONSENJI TEMPLE
On a clear day, a trip up to the top of the ropeway is a cute option.
The view is pretty, the Japanese forest is dense and green and the temple is so interesting and full of stories.
And there is omamori ( charms bought for good luck for different reasons, specified on each omamori, such as protection from bad things, good luck for events like exams , for example.)
There are also hiking trails up and down the mountains – varied distances.
The cafe and playground at the top are also lovely and a saviour when travelling with children.
They are famous for their traditional Japanese sweets but other options include soup, hot dogs and hot and cold drinks.
There is one baby change table at the top of the ropeway, just outside the Miharashi Terrace Cafe on the right. (There is also a baby change table at toilets of the bottom of the ropeway.)
The playground is old school but retro and fun for kids.
Disc throwing is a thing at the top of the mountain. Little clay plates can be purchased at the cafe and the idea is to throw them and hit the target.
The view at the top is breathtaking on a lovely clear day.
Also, its very random but there is a Dippin’ Donuts kiosk at the bottom of the ropeway, where you buy your tickets.
– Takeno Beach
Did you know that Takeno Beach is only 20 minutes away from Kinosaki by car? ( or 10 minutes by train and a 15 minute walk.)
WHERE TO DINE IN KINOSAKI
Now, hopefully you’re already staying in a totally lush ryokan or hotel where one or two meals are provided but if you decide to venture out for meals, my number 1 recommendation is Sanpou Nishimuraya Honten – one of the BEST MEALS I’VE EVER EVER EVER EATEN IN MY LIFE. It was so good that I dedicated a whole blog post just to this restaurant but I also included a few pictures below.
Another recommendation of mine for lunch, dinner or just a cup of coffee and a slice of cake, is a charming restaurant called OFF.
The food is colourful, laden with vegetables and made with love. The portion sizes are generous and the whole dining experience feels cozy and special.
The food is mostly European and is made with local produce. I highly recommend.
I would expect to pay around 2000 yen per adult for a meal here.
Please note that this restaurant is open between 11AM-4PM and then again from 6PM-10PM ( and 10AM-5PM on Sundays.)
This restaurant is closed every Monday.
They do accept most major credit cards here.
Please note that children are very welcome at this restaurant.
For a more casual lunchtime option, Kinosaki Burger is one of the local’s favourite casual dining spots.
It is worth trying the Tajima Beef Burger ( see here for more information about Tajima Beef.)
They also serve pancakes and alcohol.
They have free wifi, power points to charge devices and the bathrooms also have a change table for babies.
It is open everyday from 10AM-5PM.
Another burger or coffee option is Creezan.
Open from 10AM-11PM and they accept most major credit cards. They serve vegetarian options.
The seating area is on the second floor and has the most beautiful view of the river.
And for coffee and sweets or a grilled barbecue-style dinner with craft beer you will love the sparkling clean and modern riverside restaurant called Tokiwa Garden. Open from 10AM-10PM. (Please note that this restaurant is closed on Wednesdays.) The meat, vegetables, crab ( at the right time of year) and even marshmallows are grilled right in the restaurant. See here for the full Tokiwa Garden English DINNERTIME Menu.
The restaurant has a few picture books for children and they also have high chairs.
And then for a gorgeous spot for dessert I recommend visiting Sofuto Koubou and eating a cold ice-cream or shaved ice while sitting with your legs all tucked into a kotatsu. A kotatsu is a low Japanese table with a built in heater and a blanket. There is something so comforting and relaxing about being so cozy warm with a cold dessert in hand.
It is open from 9AM-11:30PM.
FOR GROCERIES & SNACKS
There is a supermarket called Mini Fresh in the middle of town. They are open everyday from 8AM -10PM. If you’re there around lunch time you can also buy piping hot Japanese curry, served with rice, for just a few hundred yen.
And there is also this amazing supermarket / deli called Wadaya.
This is a fantastic place to not only stock up on fruit and vegetables but is also great to pick up sashimi, tempura and other things to go with dinner.
It is open from 9AM-6:30PM everyday except for Wednesdays.
PLACES FOR WRIGGLY KIDS TO STRETCH AND PLAY
As any of us with small children know, kids also need spots to behave like children.
Here are some places with such options:
– Kinosaki Ekidori Park
The playground is right next to a community hall right in the middle of town.
The community hall has lovely clean public toilets ( including a change table and private breast-feeding spaces), a sink and a communal eating area. There is also a small book corner with picture books for families to read together.
Here are some photos of the community hall just next to/ part of the playground.
– The retro playground at the top of the Kinosaki Ropeway ( as mentioned in detail above)
If you manage to find some child-free time, I highly recommend trying Zazen ( “Zazen” means seated meditation) at the absolutely stunning Gorakuji Temple. I’ve written about it Zazen at Gokurakuji Temple here.
- Sozoro, the Tourist Information Centre in front of Kinosaki Station ( change table, boiling water available.)
- Kinosaki Ekidori Park ( indoor rest area next the park with picture books, breastfeeding and nappy changing tables, running water/sink)
- Kinosaki Marine World ( change tables, breastfeeding rooms, rental strollers for on-site use only, boiling water available.)
- Kinosaki Burger ( 1 change table in the bathrooms for customer use only.)
