Shinkansen = bullet train. It’s a good word to remember as it is used widely – even on English signage.
I’ve had lots of questions about shinkansen travel with kids so here goes my run down.
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TO BOOK OR NOT BOOK SHINKANSEN SEATS AHEAD OF TIME ?
Travelling during peak hour, weekends or national holidays? Then, Yes.
Go to the ticket desk at a large station and book one or two days ahead. For those who feel nervous waiting until you are in Japan, you can reserve a ticket using the Japan Bullet Train website or the SmartEx website (you don’t have to do this though- although it is a good idea if you know you’ll be travelling during Golden Week or during Obon.)
Most people know Smart Ex but there is another site where you can reserve bullet train tickets online and they have a fully English speaking customer service desk – the site is called Japan Bullet Train. You book everything online (choose your times and you can put in a request for the exact seats you would like) and they send you a QR code to be scanned at the Midori No Madoguchi machine at the station in exchange for a ticket! Please note that this service does have a 2000 yen processing fee so please purchase all your tickets in one transaction to save you some cash. You can use this Japan Bullet Train site to book as little as 3-5 hours in advance (ie. you could even book in the morning for a bullet train ride in the evening.)
What happens if you miss your bullet train in Japan?
If you, for some reason, miss that booked train, you wont have to buy all new tickets – you could sit on non-reserved on the next train OR just pay for the reserved seat portion of your ticket again.
Here is some additional information on reserving shinkansen seats.
If you have a JR pass that was purchased from the official JR site, then you can begin booking bullet train tickets online the moment you have purchased your JR pass.
If you have purchased a JR pass using a different site, then you can only book online using your JR pass once it is physically in your hand after it has been exchanged.
The exception? There is now a way to book single bullet train tickets ONLINE , ahead of time without having a JR Pass. Klook are now letting people book ahead of time via their site.
See here for my article on peak/rush hour train times in Japan.
Please note that all seats on Nozomi Bullet Trains will operate as reserved seat only carriages for the Obon holidays from August 9 – August 18, 2024. Please reserve seats ahead of time – either at the station or via Japan Bullet Train or SmartEx.
Japan Bullet Train have a fully English speaking customer service desk – the site is called Japan Bullet Train. You book everything online (choose your times and you can put in a request for the exact seats you would like) and they send you a QR code to be scanned at the Midori No Madoguchi machine at the station in exchange for a ticket! Please note that this service does have a 2000 yen processing fee so please purchase all your tickets in one transaction to save you some cash. You can use this Japan Bullet Train site to book as little as 3-5 hours in advance (ie. you could even book in the morning for a bullet train ride in the evening.)
WHERE AND WHEN DO I BUY BULLET TRAIN TICKETS ?
Unless you are travelling during Golden Week or Sakura season, I just recommend going to the train station and organising all of your long haul trips once you have arrived in Japan. You can also do it on the day but I like to do it a few days ahead of time, when I can, when travelling with the kids or when I have a large piece of luggage like a suitcase to travel with.
If not pre-booking them stresses you out and you want to book them from your home country – please use the SmartEx website.
I find that this gives a little less flexibility though but I know some people think of shinkansen travel like plane travel (you don’t need to!) and it gives them peace of mind, though.
If you miss your booked time, you just jump on the next train – however you will then need to sit in the non-reserved carriages as you have lost your spot for allocated seating. Hint: be there around 45 mins ahead of time with kids so that you can all find where you need to be and find your spot on the platform.
Please note that, even if you can’t get to a station to book your ticket once you are in Japan, most travel agencies will also be able to assist.
WHEN DO I NOT BOTHER BOOKING SHINKANSEN SEATS AHEAD OF TIME?
Sometimes we travel during the week to meet my husband when he travels for work. We travel to meet him on a weekday and I don’t bother with reserved seats. We sit on the non-reserved carriages and travel after 10am.
For the way home on a Sunday evening – we ALWAYS reserve (only because we got stuck once and a 3 hour bullet train trip -with people trying to get home for the new week-standing in the carriage entrance is no fun at all.)
SHINKANSEN OPTIONS FOR JR PASS HOLDERS
Yes you can reserve seats ahead of time if you have bought a JR pass using the official JR pass website.
For more information on JR Passes please see my post here.
MY KID IS FREE WITHOUT THEIR OWN SEAT, SHOULD I JUST KEEP COSTS DOWN?
For me, unless the trip is under 20-30 minutes, I would buy a seat for my kids UNLESS they are still small enough to bob up and down on my knee. Even then though… I would have to have a good think about it.
GREEN CAR, WORTH IT?
Personally, I don’t think it is. More leg room, slightly cushier seat, a free wet towel when you sit down, a bit more pressure to keep kids quiet.
When would I consider a green car bullet train ticket?
– if someone else was paying
– if I was travelling with a really tall or heavy person who needed more space
– if other seats were all booked and I really needed to get somewhere and needed to just make it happen.
TAKING A STROLLER AND / OR A LARGE SUITCASE ON THE TRAIN WHEN RIDING THE SHINKANSEN WITH KIDS – CRAZY?
Just put them at the end of the last row of your carriage and let the conductor know it is yours when they walk through.
We do it all the time. * Please note that, since early 2020, the rules changed and passengers with large suitcases will need to reserve an oversized luggage ticket with a bullet train ticket. If these are sold out, you will need to either need to forward your luggage or store your luggage in front of you in the train (there is space but it is, of course, not ideal.)
We then keep a hand luggage style smaller bag with us above our seat.
In terms of a large suitcase – your life will be sooo much easier if you send it to your next destination by courier. This is why you always see Japanese people travelling light. To find out how to forward your luggage, please see my post here.
WHAT TIME SHOULD I GET TO THE STATION IF I’M TAKING A BULLET TRAIN?
If it’s your first time? 45-60 minutes ahead of time (especially with kids). If you don’t have a ticket yet then I would arrive at least an hour before you want to travel.
If it isn’t your first time then I think 40-45 minutes ahead of time is a good idea. It allows for last minute shopping, time to get a bit lost, find a toilet etc.
HOW FAR AHEAD SHOULD I STAND ON THE PLATFORM?
With kids? I like to be on the platform at least 15 minutes ahead of time. My kids like watching the other trains go past anyway.
It also means we can get to the correct number on the platform for our carriage, be in line and ready to go when the train arrives.
When boarding, I usually look after kids and my beautiful hubby deals with luggage.
HOW DO I GET READY TO BOARD MY BULLET TRAIN?
When your train is up next, line up in the allocated line up spot on the platform next to the number carriage listed on our ticket. If you are riding without an allocated seat, you will need to look at the overhead sign to see which carriages for that particular train are the non-reserved carriages and line up at the correct spot there too.
If you want to be super nerdy and organized, once you find your carriage spot on the platform, you can see on the barrier gate (between you and the tracks) a seating map for that carriage and choose which of the two doors will give you the quickest access to your own seat.)
WHAT HAPPENS IF I MISS MY BULLET TRAIN?
If you have purchased bullet train (shinkansen) tickets for a certain time and you miss that particular train – you will lose those seats and will then have to ride on a subsequent train but in the non-reserved carriage.
CAN I CHANGE MY TRAIN TICKETS FOR A DIFFERENT TIME/DIFFERENT DAY?
Yes. At the ticket office you can change your time or day (availability pending, of course) as long as the time and day on your ticket has not already passed.
So, if you have tickets for a 4:02pm train you can’t change that ticket at 4:03pm or later -but could change it at 2pm or 3pm.
WHICH TIMES OF YEAR SHOULD I DEFINITELY BOOK TICKETS AHEAD OF TIME?
Golden Week and Obon – reserve using Japan Bullet Train or SmartEx. All other times of year I would just wait until you are physically in Japan to do it (go to the ticket office as a family on day 1 or 2 and book all your big trips for the holiday. If this makes you anxious you can use Japan Bullet Train or Smart Ex- but I, personally, find this limits my flexibility.)
Japan Bullet Train have a fully English speaking customer service desk. You book everything online (choose your times and you can put in a request for the exact seats you would like) and they send you a QR code to be scanned at the Midori No Madoguchi machine at the station in exchange for a ticket! Please note that this service does have a 2000 yen processing fee so please purchase all your tickets in one transaction to save you some cash. You can use this Japan Bullet Train site to book as little as 3-5 hours in advance (ie. you could even book in the morning for a bullet train ride in the evening.)
DO WE BRING OUR OWN SNACKS OR BUY ON THE TRAIN?
A mixture of our own and things we buy as we go.
We usually have some cash for an ekiben (a lunch box that can be purchased in the station using ingredients of the local town where it has been made) and we also have our own family traditions. There are also a new style of ekiben – if they say あっちあっち on the box, the bento self-heats with the pull of a string! You can have a warm bento on the train!!
WHERE CAN I BUY AN EKIBEN (A bento sold at train stations for train travel) ?
Within the bullet train stations and on the platform (biggest selection is inside the station once you have passed through the ticket gate)
If you are looking for an ekiben (bento to eat on the train) for the Narita Express or you are starting your bullet train trip from a normal train at Shinjuku to change elsewhere… there is a bento shop called Ekibenya Itadaki. It’s located in the Miraina Tower exit of Shinjuku Station – just outside the gates. Open 6:30am to 9pm.
You can see pictures of the bento options at Ekibenya Itadaki here. They also have the bentos sold in the shinkansen shaped bento box here.
Where can I buy a vegan bento for the train?
In that case, I recommend departing from Tokyo Station and buying a vegan bento at T’s Tan Tan or Deli Comer at Tokyo Station.
I have more details on these Tokyo Station area spots here.
Other snack favourites for the bullet train
We always love to eat jyagariko ( potato crisp sticks) and toppo ( thin pretzel tube crackers with chocolate inside) while on the bullet train.
It’s our thing.
I recommend bringing your own if you have family members with specific dietary requirements or if you’re particular about certain flavours of treats. The bullet train trolley can only store so much. Please note that the trolley service came to an end in October 2023 on the Tokaido Line between Osaka and Tokyo – so be sure to buy your snacks and meals in the station beforehand or on the platform.
This is jyagariko.
@thetokyochapter Japan traditions for us #japanwithkids #thetokyochapter
This is an ekiben.
This is an example of snacks that we have bought on the train platform to then eat on the train. ( I purchased these in Nagoya)
SETTING YOURSELF UP, ONCE ON THE BULLET TRAIN
- Jackets and bags either above your head or hanging next to the window next to your seat.
- Keep tickets close for when the conductor comes around to check.
- Remove children’s shoes so they can wriggle around without offending or getting the seats dirty.
- Plug in phone chargers in the electrical sockets provided.
- If you have family in the seat in front or behind – did you know that the seat with flip so that you can face one another?
- Closest toilets and rubbish bins are shown on the back of your tray table in the seat in front of you
- No need to keep an eye out for your stop. Announcements will be made in English but also if you wanted to sleep or just chill out instead of paying much attention, your arrival time is written on your train ticket. It is so reliable that you can even seat your alarm to 10 minutes prior to arrival to start packing up and gathering your family to the train door
An extra tip from a busy Mum? Choose one pocket where the tickets go and always return them to the same spot. The ticket inspectors walk through intermittently so everything is easier if you know exactly where your ticket is at all times.
MAKE SURE YOU’RE READY TO GET OFF THE SHINKANSEN AT THE CORRECT TIME
Like I said above, your ticket will have your exact arrival time displayed. Do NOT wait until your train is arriving in the station to get ready and packed up. This is not a normal train. The stop will be very very brief. Tourists are well known for missing their stop completely. Don’t be one of them.
SHINKANSEN ETIQUETTE
- Just leave your seat and seat basket as clean ( and chair reclined) as you found it.
- Phone calls. Only in the lobby section between the carriages ( one reason why its just so lovely and quiet in a bullet train carriage.)
- Try not to be noisy in the carriage. Babies and kids are, of course, humans and whatever.. but loud laughs and chats with a can of beer in hand isn’t exactly going to make you many new bullet train friends.
- Super smelly foods are frowned upon.
SHINKANSEN WITH KIDS: KEEPING EVERYONE ENTERTAINED
- Screens are fine ( with the sound almost silent or with headphones, of course.). Don’t rely too heavily on wifi though as I find it to be patchy in tunnels etc.
- I pack lots of plastic bags. There are rubbish bins in the trains but its best to make a little rubbish collection to save getting up and down all the time
- I pack toys similarly to the way I pack for flying with kids. My go-to is a few figurines and a small tub of playdoh.
Sometimes the ticketing staff will give out little sticker books for kids. So cute – and every little bit of entertainment helps, right?
If you haven’t ridden a shinkansen in a while..
You may be surprised to hear that the bullet trains no longer have the cart that goes up and down carriages selling food and drinks.
So it is best to buy a drink and a snack at the platform kiosks before boarding (another reason to get to the platform early.)
SHINKANSEN ARE FAST, SO FAST THAT YOU CAN TELL ?
Don’t be embarrassed if this is something that concerns you.
I get this question ALL the time.
Sorry to disappoint though, inside the train is a totally smooth ride.
I actually find it easier to entertain kids than on a plane as there are no seatbelts and kids can move about much more freely.
For this reason, I recommend kids by the window and adults on the aisle. Then kids are kind of “ trapped” in their own booth. They can get up and down, off the seat, on the seat, looking out the window etc.
DRESSING FOR THE SHINKANSEN (WITH OR WITHOUT KIDS)
I recommend having a layer you can take off or add. A light long-sleeved shirt to wear under a jacket is probably a good option, even for kids.
The reason being : bullet trains are seriously overheated in winter and seriously chilly in summer.
WHICH SIDE OF THE SHINKANSEN MIGHT I SEE MOUNT FUJI?
If you’re lucky and it is a clear day, you will see Mt Fuji on the right side if you’re heading for Kyoto from Tokyo ( 4o minutes out of Tokyo.)
If you’re travelling towards Tokyo from Osaka or Kyoto, Fuji might be visible on your left ( approximately 80 minutes out of Kyoto.)
Mt Fuji is not always easy to spot. She most often makes an appearance in winter on a clear day with a beautiful blue sky.
NERDY NERDY SHINKANSEN TIP
I really like watching my blue dot move along soooo quickly on google maps while I travel on a bullet train.
Some The Tokyo Chapter readers have also said there are some apps where you can gauge your speed of travel too and it’s fun to watch how high those numbers go.
Additional quick tip: A really smart thing to do once your arrive at a new station is to get your bearings using the signs on the platform – especially for bigger stations. Read the information on exit numbers for your destination. It will save your feet having to backtrack (and your stress levels.)
If your kids love trains and everything transport, I think you would also like these activities for transport-obsessed kids in Japan.
For more tips on mindful train ettiquette in Japan see my post here.
